Spear Points - Using a spear in reenactment fighting
Spears are significant in the development of mankind. They have variously been ascribed as having saved our species from internecine destruction (LINK)
or having caused our descent into war.(LINK) What should we believe ?
Either way, Odin’s weapon was not an axe, sword or bow but Gungnir, a spear !
Beginners Guide to Using the Light Spear
We have to distinguish now between the Light Spear-with a shorter head, thinner shaft and wielded in one hand and the Heavy Spear – which has a longer, heavier head, thicker shaft and is used in two hands.
PART 1 – THEORY AND PRACTICE
The Weapon
Spears are the most common weapon found in the archæology of the Viking age. It is difficult to say for certain what is a hunting or live-stock protection tool and what are weapons but most will do for either purpose. The spear is found in almost all male graves except those of the very young. The spear is the symbol of masculinity. A spear-bearer could defend his house and farm. Even the richest graves contain spears in addition to swords and armour.
Spears are known from archæology made from various woods but many finds are of ash and the poetic synonym for spears in Old English is ‘ash’. Ash is especially well suited but any straight-grained wood will do such as hazel or alder.
The spear is often thought to be about as tall as the man who owned it because spear heads are found next to the head in grave-finds . However, no grave would be dug longer just to accommodate a long spear and we have many examples where the spear has obviously been broken to go into the grave. Finds from large tomb chambers indicate 8 feet or 2.5 m as a full length. In addition, the differences between a farmer-fighter’s equipment and that of a soldier/warrior could account for the longer spears in richer graves.
I would suggest spear length should be related to a person’s height and therefore ability to usefully wield it. If the spear socket starts where the warror’s upraised arm allows his middle finger to reach that seems a good rule.
Many original spears had a butt-spike. ( NOT a ferrule – something on umbrellas used to pick up litter in films). Some had ornamental butt-fittings. This preserves the end against being stuck in the soil, allows it to be easily stuck in the soil and means both ends of the shaft can kill.
Spear shafts are not heavy. From socket internal dimensions and fragments found 20-28mm is the range of archæological find shaft diameters. From my own collection of tribal spears none have shafts more than 25mm and most around 15mm.
Many spears were planed to be thinner at one or both ends. Thrusting spears can have shafts thicker at the butt to improve balance and throwing spears thinned at both ends fly better.
The whole weapon can weigh-in at about half a kilo but thicker shafts and larger heads rapidly increase the weight.
Spear heads vary a lot in size and shape and thus weight. There would have been differences according to regional preferences of fashion and fighting style and what the local smith was capable of. Poorer men would have one spear to hunt and fight with but warriors would have had several spears made perhaps to pierce mail, to be thrown easily or for ‘fencing ‘ with. The ‘winged’ spears may have been mostly used in a different way , two-handed, from horseback or some other way. Because they were the masculine symbol it is quite possible that spearhead forms were more important as status or tribal symbols than in a practical sense.
Using the Weapon
A spear-and shield-equipped force will naturally adopt a linear formation, each gaining some protection from his neighbour’s shield.
Re-enactors call this a shieldwall.
Sumerian shieldwall as depicted on a stele from Lagash dated to 2225 B.C. !
Poems and manuscript pictures from the period and many older depictions, as well as modern photographic evidence from peoples still using spears in the modern era., show us the normal way to use a spear was over-arm. This way the arm is poised to thrust or throw and in conjunction with a step forward can deliver a viciously powerful strike. The body remains hidden behind the shield and in the shieldwall clash lunges and jabs could be made at open targets or the opponent’s face. Any debate about whether underam or overarm is authentic can be satisfied by a quick read of these two articles (LINK).
There was a right way to hold the shield and spear in the shieldwall and the commander’s job included making sure his men were properly prepared to fight.
The spear allows all men who can afford the small amount of iron for the spearhead and a shield to participate in a fight. A crowd of peasants can form an obstacle which will at least slow down a bunch of paid killers. If one village fights another then the whole manpower of each can engage in an organised way – and in a way which inspires confidence amongst the group and makes the fight less daunting perhaps than a series of one to one combats.
The shieldwall was probably last seen amongst Sudanese tribes in the early 1900’s.
A large group of Shilluk men with hide shields, spears and flags in Southern Sudan c.1900. picture from the Pitt-Rivers Museum.
A tombstone from Aberlemno, Scotland, shows that a group of spearmen could use their spears held at length with two hands to form a ‘hedgehog’ to keep off cavalry (out of picture on the right) but to use the spear in close combat without a controlled shield would be suicidal.
This same stone may actually show something we thought we had created in modern re-enactment fighting; a line of sword and shield men backed up by a second rank of 2-handed spearmen !
Problems for Viking Age Re-enactors
To use this weapon in re-enactment is essential if we are to truly represent what the majority of warriors fought with in those times however, the overarm use of a spear is very dangerous.
The solution is to adopt an underarm stance and allow the spear-shaft to be controlled by a combination of the hand, forearm and the side of the body.
Of course we will not throw our spears either.
A thrust with a spear directs all the force at the impact point – this means thrusting must be done in a controlled manner.
If a butt-spike is to be used it should be very blunt.
With these limits it is still possible to use the spear in an effective and realistic way for
re-enactment fighting.
The Re-enactment Spear
The spear has a head of good steel which is checked before each fight for dangerous burrs and that the socket is tight and the socket nail is secure.
The head is light, to give better control, and has edges of 2mm width and no sharper than the curvature of a medium value coin (whichever country you are in). Putting a ball on the end makes a tip which concentrates force more than on a curved edge.
The head is fixed onto the shaft by hammering it on and then setting in a small nail through a hole in the lower edge of the socket. Make sure the nailhead does not make a dangerous projection. A rivet all the way through just weakens the shaft.
The shaft below the socket can be bound with rawhide thong to reduce the chance of it being lopped off by ‘enthusiastic’ opponents.
The shaft should be 25-28mm dowel from a DIY store.
It is possible to use a very short spear like a kebab skewer in re-enactment fighting. Holding it in one hand with no counterbalancing shaft. I consider this to be inaccurate when compared to how spears were used and as such is an ‘artefact’ of re-enactment fighting. This weapon would not be countenanced - or useable – by historical warriors.
It should be the same length as your height from foot to upstretched middle finger plus the socketlength of your spear (or whatever length you feel safe with). Before use, oil it well and sand any rough bits. Make a point to receive the head that fits snugly. Tie a piece of thong at the balance point and nail it on with a small tack – this allows quicker judgement of your control of the spear.
Whittle the butt to a rounded point so it can be stuck in the earth if need be.
After each use ( and before first use) the spear shaft should be sanded to remove splinters. Then it should be wetted with water, dried and finally oiled before being stored.
If stored for a long time then before use soak the head end of the shaft in water for half an hour before oiling it to avoid the rattle of a shrunken dried shaft in a spear socket.
Similarly the head should be filed/sanded , cleaned until shiny and oiled before storage.
There are examples of poker-work decoration which can be applied to the shaft and colours could be applied to give an eye-catching appearance.
PART 2 : RE-ENACTMENT SPEAR FIGHTING . THE BASICS
HIT AREAS
The Moesgård Rules only allow spears to kill with thrusts to the torso. These rules also seek to disallow what is perceived as ‘cutting’ whereby a spear hit is with the edge not the tip of the spearhead.
I think this is too limiting. A spear thrust to the arms or legs would do great damage. A hit with the edge is safer than attempting a pointed thrust in many cases and in any case many spears are designed to cut. A shearing impact across a body with many broad spears would slice the victim open. Spears are already reduced in effect by safety considerations and I feel any hit with the head into the torso should be a kill. Hits to the upper limbs should be allowed to kill or cripple also.
FIGHTING STANCE
When using a spear and shield there is a good way and a bad way to stand ready for combat.
Left leg should be forward to allow the right leg to be brought forward for an attacking step forward and to the right. The feet are at opposite ends of a line 45 degrees from the line through your front and you should stand on the balls of your feet, knees slightly bent.
The shield should be held away from the body and toward the opposite man in the enemy line. This reduces his view of you and saves you from being knocked by the shield if it rotates as it is hit.
This stance is realistic and can be seen as recorded by photographers in the
18-1900s.
Moro tribesman from the Philipines
1930’s
Zande tribesman from Sudan c.1900
English manuscript illustration
c.1000 A.D.
Male Zande warrior demonstrating the use of a
wickerwork shield (kube) and spear, in semi-crouched
position with shield pushed ahead and spear (baso) raised.
Sudan 1900.
Another picture of the same warrior – notice
how little target there is to strike at .
The spear is held in a grip like tennis raquet with the hand just behind the balance point. The shaft is held along the inside forearm, the arm being held about 45 degrees away from the body. The spear runs past the shield at about 1.30 on the clock face. If necessary the arm can be dropped to press the spear against the side and thus gain stability and rest the arm a bit however, the basic stance is with the spear away from the body.
The line of the spear is directed to a point just above the opposite man’s shield boss. The spear should be angled slightly down to reduce chances of hitting the opponent in the face with a ricochet off his shield.
The spear should always be pointed at your opponent – then he cannot step forward and close with you without removing this threat first.
For safety it is better that no strikes are made onto the opponent’s shield between the 10 and 2 o’clock positions – just in case it slides into his face. It is possible to strike just above the boss quite forcefully but safely and this shock lets him know you mean business.
EXERCISE.
Practice trying to hit an opponent – without shields.
Conclusions :
Unlike with sword fighting, a spearman should be aware of 5 other people, at least, when in the shieldwall.
Friends:
The spearman’s left and right neighbours are supporting him – it is important to know they are there. This is not done by turning the head – that would be fatal – but by observing their spearheads – if all are en garde then their spearheads will be visible to left and right without turning the head. Then your eyes are able to be on the enemy more of the time.
Enemies:
Your opposite number is not your main target ! Spears kill mostly by cross-striking to the right.
By striking to the right you gain better access to the unshielded side of the enemy and a greater likelihood of a kill. Cross-strikes to the left are also sometimes possible.
It is unlikely you can successfully hit the man opposite you but he must still be kept at bay. This is done by maintaining a good en garde position and striking aggressively at his shield or making attempts to ‘open him up’ for your neighbours to kill.
EXERCISE
Cross striking.
Cross- strike right
Cross strike left
Feint and cross-strike
Hit attacking enemy
(left or right)
OPENING STRIKES
Shield opening – to left / opposite
Shield opening – to the right is not usually possible.
Spear/axe trapping.
PART 3. MORE TECHNIQUES
EYES
Watch your opponents’ eyes – they tell your where their attention is focussed. If they are not looking at you then you can attack. If they are looking at you maintain your guard and be aggressive to them so they seek targets elsewhere.
AVOID SPEAR DROOP
Time and weight take their toll on your puny modern muscles ! Often after a while people let their guard drop because they cannot hold the spear up any longer.
Take some weight off your arm momentarily by
A drooping shield arm means your shoulder is vulnerable to hits.
Rest the shield on the knee for a moment or even hold it onto your body to get some relief.
Beware the resting of the shield on the body part means impact shocks are transmitted into the body – ouch !
VARIABLE WEAPON LENGTH
Because of its long shaft and relatively long zone of balance it is possible to use the spear with more or less shaft projecting forward of the hand. This gives you more or less reach.
It is also possible to strike with a long extended arm or with a short thrust.
When striking it is possible to step forward with the right foot at the same time – greatly increasing range.
Using combinations of these techniques it is possible to vary your spear thrust’s reach to nearly 2m from about 50cm.
The key thing about using this capability is to surprise the enemy. Prod at short range for a few seconds and the enemy get used to your radius of action. Then when you see your moment make a much longer strike – perhaps catching an enemy off guard because he thought he was safe from you.
ROBOT SPEAR HUNTERS
‘Hunting the spear’ is a common response by sword or axemen to facing spears.
What they are doing is sweeping the en-garde spearheads down and away so they present no threat.
A common failing is that the spear hunters fall into a methodical repetition of striking downwards. If then you know what he is doing in the next second and can plan a move to hit him when he is over-extended or open him up for a friend.
CIRCULAR PARRY AND RIPOSTE
Another response to spear hunting – or to any parrying strike is a circular parry and riposte.
It is impossible to do in a close shieldwall fight.
As the blow comes down on your spearhead step left, rotate it to the left and up and then into the enemy’s body or shoulder. It may be that you can make this circle to the right and strike for the man on the right who thinks you are involved in fencing with his friend.
This much easier to do against left-handed opponents who often expect to have the advantage.
CLOSING WITH THE ENEMY and / or RESORTING TO SECONDARY WEAPONS
When under close attack...
This is a very nutty problem.
Essentially, if a short-weapon-armed man gets closer to you than your spearhead then things look grim.
While you have the support of your friends this is not so likely but once a fight gets messy then it is possible.
You may try to use a very shortened spear to fight him off.
Otherwise it is a necessity to have a readily available, easily drawn side-arm.
Do not remain cemented to your spear. It is possible to drop it and use the side-arm.
However, remember to drop the spear safely and not toss it into someone’s face. Drop the spear straight down, not to the back or forward.
If the spear lies in the line it may be possible to regain it when the pressure is off.
When wishing to attack....
Sometimes an enemy is not giving ground quickly enough or needs killing faster.
A group should practice so they can discard their spears safely, draw side-arms and close with the enemy. After a command it should take only a second or two for the enemy to be jumped by a bunch of swordsmen when he thought he had achieved a stand-off with a rank of spears.
MOMENTUM
Sometimes a spear line hesitates at the point of impact and loses momentum. This is partly due to not being able to ram your spear forwards into the enemy’s face.....
One way to try and maintain momentum is to have a common warcry which is uttered at the first contact and is the sign for every one to strike VIOLENTLY on their opponent’s shield. Spears are carried into the fight held well back – cocked to leap forward. The violent strike must be made at the 3 o’clock position on his shield, so that any skidding is not directed into faces by accident. On the last pace to meet the enemy - all scream then strike !
PART 4. CONCLUSIONS : IMPORTANT ASPECTS
The spear line should be seen as an aggressive killing machine – not a hedgehog !!
Practice being forceful but safe in any strikes made.
ASH
AWARENESSand Be aware of your two friends and your three enemies.
AGGRESSION Know who is most threatening and who is most vulnerable.
Be able to threaten and intimidate your enemies.
STANCE Maintain the en garde stance.
This keeps you safe and threatens the enemy.
HELP EACH OTHER Spear lines kill by cooperation.
Cooperation means the enemy each face 3 opponents but feel alone in their attacks.
NO SINGLE HEROES – WE ALL SURVIVE !
Return to Vikings here
Spears are significant in the development of mankind. They have variously been ascribed as having saved our species from internecine destruction (LINK)
or having caused our descent into war.(LINK) What should we believe ?
Either way, Odin’s weapon was not an axe, sword or bow but Gungnir, a spear !
Beginners Guide to Using the Light Spear
We have to distinguish now between the Light Spear-with a shorter head, thinner shaft and wielded in one hand and the Heavy Spear – which has a longer, heavier head, thicker shaft and is used in two hands.
PART 1 – THEORY AND PRACTICE
The Weapon
Spears are the most common weapon found in the archæology of the Viking age. It is difficult to say for certain what is a hunting or live-stock protection tool and what are weapons but most will do for either purpose. The spear is found in almost all male graves except those of the very young. The spear is the symbol of masculinity. A spear-bearer could defend his house and farm. Even the richest graves contain spears in addition to swords and armour.
Spears are known from archæology made from various woods but many finds are of ash and the poetic synonym for spears in Old English is ‘ash’. Ash is especially well suited but any straight-grained wood will do such as hazel or alder.
The spear is often thought to be about as tall as the man who owned it because spear heads are found next to the head in grave-finds . However, no grave would be dug longer just to accommodate a long spear and we have many examples where the spear has obviously been broken to go into the grave. Finds from large tomb chambers indicate 8 feet or 2.5 m as a full length. In addition, the differences between a farmer-fighter’s equipment and that of a soldier/warrior could account for the longer spears in richer graves.
I would suggest spear length should be related to a person’s height and therefore ability to usefully wield it. If the spear socket starts where the warror’s upraised arm allows his middle finger to reach that seems a good rule.
Many original spears had a butt-spike. ( NOT a ferrule – something on umbrellas used to pick up litter in films). Some had ornamental butt-fittings. This preserves the end against being stuck in the soil, allows it to be easily stuck in the soil and means both ends of the shaft can kill.
Spear shafts are not heavy. From socket internal dimensions and fragments found 20-28mm is the range of archæological find shaft diameters. From my own collection of tribal spears none have shafts more than 25mm and most around 15mm.
Many spears were planed to be thinner at one or both ends. Thrusting spears can have shafts thicker at the butt to improve balance and throwing spears thinned at both ends fly better.
The whole weapon can weigh-in at about half a kilo but thicker shafts and larger heads rapidly increase the weight.
Spear heads vary a lot in size and shape and thus weight. There would have been differences according to regional preferences of fashion and fighting style and what the local smith was capable of. Poorer men would have one spear to hunt and fight with but warriors would have had several spears made perhaps to pierce mail, to be thrown easily or for ‘fencing ‘ with. The ‘winged’ spears may have been mostly used in a different way , two-handed, from horseback or some other way. Because they were the masculine symbol it is quite possible that spearhead forms were more important as status or tribal symbols than in a practical sense.
Using the Weapon
A spear-and shield-equipped force will naturally adopt a linear formation, each gaining some protection from his neighbour’s shield.
Re-enactors call this a shieldwall.
Sumerian shieldwall as depicted on a stele from Lagash dated to 2225 B.C. !
Poems and manuscript pictures from the period and many older depictions, as well as modern photographic evidence from peoples still using spears in the modern era., show us the normal way to use a spear was over-arm. This way the arm is poised to thrust or throw and in conjunction with a step forward can deliver a viciously powerful strike. The body remains hidden behind the shield and in the shieldwall clash lunges and jabs could be made at open targets or the opponent’s face. Any debate about whether underam or overarm is authentic can be satisfied by a quick read of these two articles (LINK).
There was a right way to hold the shield and spear in the shieldwall and the commander’s job included making sure his men were properly prepared to fight.
The spear allows all men who can afford the small amount of iron for the spearhead and a shield to participate in a fight. A crowd of peasants can form an obstacle which will at least slow down a bunch of paid killers. If one village fights another then the whole manpower of each can engage in an organised way – and in a way which inspires confidence amongst the group and makes the fight less daunting perhaps than a series of one to one combats.
The shieldwall was probably last seen amongst Sudanese tribes in the early 1900’s.
A large group of Shilluk men with hide shields, spears and flags in Southern Sudan c.1900. picture from the Pitt-Rivers Museum.
A tombstone from Aberlemno, Scotland, shows that a group of spearmen could use their spears held at length with two hands to form a ‘hedgehog’ to keep off cavalry (out of picture on the right) but to use the spear in close combat without a controlled shield would be suicidal.
This same stone may actually show something we thought we had created in modern re-enactment fighting; a line of sword and shield men backed up by a second rank of 2-handed spearmen !
Problems for Viking Age Re-enactors
To use this weapon in re-enactment is essential if we are to truly represent what the majority of warriors fought with in those times however, the overarm use of a spear is very dangerous.
The solution is to adopt an underarm stance and allow the spear-shaft to be controlled by a combination of the hand, forearm and the side of the body.
Of course we will not throw our spears either.
A thrust with a spear directs all the force at the impact point – this means thrusting must be done in a controlled manner.
If a butt-spike is to be used it should be very blunt.
With these limits it is still possible to use the spear in an effective and realistic way for
re-enactment fighting.
The Re-enactment Spear
The spear has a head of good steel which is checked before each fight for dangerous burrs and that the socket is tight and the socket nail is secure.
The head is light, to give better control, and has edges of 2mm width and no sharper than the curvature of a medium value coin (whichever country you are in). Putting a ball on the end makes a tip which concentrates force more than on a curved edge.
The head is fixed onto the shaft by hammering it on and then setting in a small nail through a hole in the lower edge of the socket. Make sure the nailhead does not make a dangerous projection. A rivet all the way through just weakens the shaft.
The shaft below the socket can be bound with rawhide thong to reduce the chance of it being lopped off by ‘enthusiastic’ opponents.
The shaft should be 25-28mm dowel from a DIY store.
It is possible to use a very short spear like a kebab skewer in re-enactment fighting. Holding it in one hand with no counterbalancing shaft. I consider this to be inaccurate when compared to how spears were used and as such is an ‘artefact’ of re-enactment fighting. This weapon would not be countenanced - or useable – by historical warriors.
It should be the same length as your height from foot to upstretched middle finger plus the socketlength of your spear (or whatever length you feel safe with). Before use, oil it well and sand any rough bits. Make a point to receive the head that fits snugly. Tie a piece of thong at the balance point and nail it on with a small tack – this allows quicker judgement of your control of the spear.
Whittle the butt to a rounded point so it can be stuck in the earth if need be.
After each use ( and before first use) the spear shaft should be sanded to remove splinters. Then it should be wetted with water, dried and finally oiled before being stored.
If stored for a long time then before use soak the head end of the shaft in water for half an hour before oiling it to avoid the rattle of a shrunken dried shaft in a spear socket.
Similarly the head should be filed/sanded , cleaned until shiny and oiled before storage.
There are examples of poker-work decoration which can be applied to the shaft and colours could be applied to give an eye-catching appearance.
PART 2 : RE-ENACTMENT SPEAR FIGHTING . THE BASICS
HIT AREAS
The Moesgård Rules only allow spears to kill with thrusts to the torso. These rules also seek to disallow what is perceived as ‘cutting’ whereby a spear hit is with the edge not the tip of the spearhead.
I think this is too limiting. A spear thrust to the arms or legs would do great damage. A hit with the edge is safer than attempting a pointed thrust in many cases and in any case many spears are designed to cut. A shearing impact across a body with many broad spears would slice the victim open. Spears are already reduced in effect by safety considerations and I feel any hit with the head into the torso should be a kill. Hits to the upper limbs should be allowed to kill or cripple also.
FIGHTING STANCE
When using a spear and shield there is a good way and a bad way to stand ready for combat.
Left leg should be forward to allow the right leg to be brought forward for an attacking step forward and to the right. The feet are at opposite ends of a line 45 degrees from the line through your front and you should stand on the balls of your feet, knees slightly bent.
The shield should be held away from the body and toward the opposite man in the enemy line. This reduces his view of you and saves you from being knocked by the shield if it rotates as it is hit.
This stance is realistic and can be seen as recorded by photographers in the
18-1900s.
Moro tribesman from the Philipines
1930’s
Zande tribesman from Sudan c.1900
English manuscript illustration
c.1000 A.D.
Male Zande warrior demonstrating the use of a
wickerwork shield (kube) and spear, in semi-crouched
position with shield pushed ahead and spear (baso) raised.
Sudan 1900.
Another picture of the same warrior – notice
how little target there is to strike at .
The spear is held in a grip like tennis raquet with the hand just behind the balance point. The shaft is held along the inside forearm, the arm being held about 45 degrees away from the body. The spear runs past the shield at about 1.30 on the clock face. If necessary the arm can be dropped to press the spear against the side and thus gain stability and rest the arm a bit however, the basic stance is with the spear away from the body.
The line of the spear is directed to a point just above the opposite man’s shield boss. The spear should be angled slightly down to reduce chances of hitting the opponent in the face with a ricochet off his shield.
The spear should always be pointed at your opponent – then he cannot step forward and close with you without removing this threat first.
For safety it is better that no strikes are made onto the opponent’s shield between the 10 and 2 o’clock positions – just in case it slides into his face. It is possible to strike just above the boss quite forcefully but safely and this shock lets him know you mean business.
EXERCISE.
Practice trying to hit an opponent – without shields.
Conclusions :
- It is difficult. Non-facing opponents are easier targets.
- En garde helps make it difficult for the opponent.
Unlike with sword fighting, a spearman should be aware of 5 other people, at least, when in the shieldwall.
Friends:
The spearman’s left and right neighbours are supporting him – it is important to know they are there. This is not done by turning the head – that would be fatal – but by observing their spearheads – if all are en garde then their spearheads will be visible to left and right without turning the head. Then your eyes are able to be on the enemy more of the time.
Enemies:
Your opposite number is not your main target ! Spears kill mostly by cross-striking to the right.
By striking to the right you gain better access to the unshielded side of the enemy and a greater likelihood of a kill. Cross-strikes to the left are also sometimes possible.
It is unlikely you can successfully hit the man opposite you but he must still be kept at bay. This is done by maintaining a good en garde position and striking aggressively at his shield or making attempts to ‘open him up’ for your neighbours to kill.
EXERCISE
Cross striking.
- Make your attack safe then cross strike.
- Conclusion : Wait for your moment or safeguard your attack.
Cross- strike right
Cross strike left
Feint and cross-strike
Hit attacking enemy
(left or right)
OPENING STRIKES
Shield opening – to left / opposite
Shield opening – to the right is not usually possible.
Spear/axe trapping.
PART 3. MORE TECHNIQUES
EYES
Watch your opponents’ eyes – they tell your where their attention is focussed. If they are not looking at you then you can attack. If they are looking at you maintain your guard and be aggressive to them so they seek targets elsewhere.
AVOID SPEAR DROOP
Time and weight take their toll on your puny modern muscles ! Often after a while people let their guard drop because they cannot hold the spear up any longer.
Take some weight off your arm momentarily by
- Clamping your arm to your side and supporting the shaft.
- Reduce the amount of shaft projecting , so you hold on the balance point.
- Rest the spear shaft on the 1.30 position of your shield
A drooping shield arm means your shoulder is vulnerable to hits.
Rest the shield on the knee for a moment or even hold it onto your body to get some relief.
Beware the resting of the shield on the body part means impact shocks are transmitted into the body – ouch !
VARIABLE WEAPON LENGTH
Because of its long shaft and relatively long zone of balance it is possible to use the spear with more or less shaft projecting forward of the hand. This gives you more or less reach.
It is also possible to strike with a long extended arm or with a short thrust.
When striking it is possible to step forward with the right foot at the same time – greatly increasing range.
Using combinations of these techniques it is possible to vary your spear thrust’s reach to nearly 2m from about 50cm.
The key thing about using this capability is to surprise the enemy. Prod at short range for a few seconds and the enemy get used to your radius of action. Then when you see your moment make a much longer strike – perhaps catching an enemy off guard because he thought he was safe from you.
ROBOT SPEAR HUNTERS
‘Hunting the spear’ is a common response by sword or axemen to facing spears.
What they are doing is sweeping the en-garde spearheads down and away so they present no threat.
A common failing is that the spear hunters fall into a methodical repetition of striking downwards. If then you know what he is doing in the next second and can plan a move to hit him when he is over-extended or open him up for a friend.
CIRCULAR PARRY AND RIPOSTE
Another response to spear hunting – or to any parrying strike is a circular parry and riposte.
It is impossible to do in a close shieldwall fight.
As the blow comes down on your spearhead step left, rotate it to the left and up and then into the enemy’s body or shoulder. It may be that you can make this circle to the right and strike for the man on the right who thinks you are involved in fencing with his friend.
This much easier to do against left-handed opponents who often expect to have the advantage.
CLOSING WITH THE ENEMY and / or RESORTING TO SECONDARY WEAPONS
When under close attack...
This is a very nutty problem.
Essentially, if a short-weapon-armed man gets closer to you than your spearhead then things look grim.
While you have the support of your friends this is not so likely but once a fight gets messy then it is possible.
You may try to use a very shortened spear to fight him off.
Otherwise it is a necessity to have a readily available, easily drawn side-arm.
Do not remain cemented to your spear. It is possible to drop it and use the side-arm.
However, remember to drop the spear safely and not toss it into someone’s face. Drop the spear straight down, not to the back or forward.
If the spear lies in the line it may be possible to regain it when the pressure is off.
When wishing to attack....
Sometimes an enemy is not giving ground quickly enough or needs killing faster.
A group should practice so they can discard their spears safely, draw side-arms and close with the enemy. After a command it should take only a second or two for the enemy to be jumped by a bunch of swordsmen when he thought he had achieved a stand-off with a rank of spears.
MOMENTUM
Sometimes a spear line hesitates at the point of impact and loses momentum. This is partly due to not being able to ram your spear forwards into the enemy’s face.....
One way to try and maintain momentum is to have a common warcry which is uttered at the first contact and is the sign for every one to strike VIOLENTLY on their opponent’s shield. Spears are carried into the fight held well back – cocked to leap forward. The violent strike must be made at the 3 o’clock position on his shield, so that any skidding is not directed into faces by accident. On the last pace to meet the enemy - all scream then strike !
PART 4. CONCLUSIONS : IMPORTANT ASPECTS
The spear line should be seen as an aggressive killing machine – not a hedgehog !!
Practice being forceful but safe in any strikes made.
ASH
AWARENESSand Be aware of your two friends and your three enemies.
AGGRESSION Know who is most threatening and who is most vulnerable.
Be able to threaten and intimidate your enemies.
STANCE Maintain the en garde stance.
This keeps you safe and threatens the enemy.
HELP EACH OTHER Spear lines kill by cooperation.
Cooperation means the enemy each face 3 opponents but feel alone in their attacks.
NO SINGLE HEROES – WE ALL SURVIVE !
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